We had been to the main tourist sites. With the remaining time left it was a chance to reflect on the whole trip and what India had shown us. Unfortunately the darkest hour was still ahead of us.

My memories of Shimla are hazy, but I will use the images below to describe our remaining time there.

We took some taxis to find a zoo which took us on some impressive roads through the thick forests.

I can recall talking to the taxi driver. At different times throughout the trip I always enjoyed talking to people about tigers. We thought that we had never been close to an area where we thought we might see one, although they had been close in Wardha.

On a train I spoke with a young husband and wife. He was a teacher, his subject was Janism, and we also spoke about whether he had ever seen a tiger. What would be the equivalent of someone visiting Britain… Have you ever seen a … and all I can think of is a badger (yes I have) deer (yes I have) or dolphins (nearly 40 years of looking and I know it is going to happen soon). But none of those really come close to a tiger.

The taxi driver spoke in a very matter of fact way, but then so would I if I was spinning a yarn. “I have seen tigers crossing these roads, usually in the early morning or evening. I saw one last week,” reported the driver casually. Working on the principle that you can’t kid a kidder, I looked at him carefully. He was being very calm and I could accept what he is saying given how dense the forests were. Large animals could roam through these lands and it was one of the last places that they could be away from mankind. But there was logging going on, so there would be an impact on the wildlife eventually.

We found the zoo. It was empty and was like a dystopic theme park that still attracted visitors. We saw someone with a yak, but as soon as you went close somebody would jump out asking for money for a photograph, so I have no images here!

We created some interest from other visitors. We met another group from an Indian college and our students mingled with theirs. It was just on the verge of the first wave of social media and photos were craved for. Our group were their usual magnificent best and they spoke to their hosts, had pictures taken and took a genuine interest in meeting others.

India took a long time to enjoy the potato. In these cooler climates they found it easier to grow them and now they are a popular part of the diet. Thankfully for me.

The contrasts of India are apparent in their attitude to health and safety. Back home we complain about the restrictions placed upon us in the name of health and safety. But here are buildings being constructed, not an uncommon site around Shimla, with a precise system of wooden scaffolding. It seems to work!

There is a pleasant atmosphere about Shimla. Maybe it was just the cooler air, but everything seemed less hectic than the cities we had visited. With the temperature and architecture it was a reminder of home, and our flight home was less than 72 hours away.

I don’t think I will ever return to Shimla. I would recommend it for a visit, but there is so much more of this country to explore.

In the main square is the impressive cathedral, a reminder of the colonial past. It dates back to 1886 and is an impressive building that dominates the centre of the town. Here is one of those contrasts – the white cathedral so close to the monkey temple, a short walk.

Our time in India was over. We had the train booked for the morning. We would have one last meal out together in Shimla and then the evening train down the montains and on to Delhi. The story should end here, but unfortunately it does not. India had its most memorable challenge still to throw at us.

Next time…