Here I was in New Delhi Indira Gandhi International Airport waiting in line to move through passport and visa control. So far, so good. It’s a modern airport and no better or worse than Heathrow or Doha, our starting point and connecting point. 

A distinguished gentleman motioned for me to move forward. I tried to smile in that respectful way you do when you know someone can actually make life very difficult for you. Eventually, after a series of stamps placed in the passport, he welcomed me to India and allowed me through. Amazingly this was not the last time that I would meet this gentleman…

The school group was waiting. Thirteen students and one other teacher. As far as travel to the Third World was concerned this was my first time, the same for the students (all aged between 17-18), but our group leader, Gilly was very experienced and in total command. 

India was hiding behind the new airport building. I thought that all the stories that I had heard must have been exaggerated. Everyone was pleasant, I cannot think there was even a hint of what life was really like while cocooned in that building.

To move across Delhi we were meant to take the new Metro system that had been built ahead of the Commonwealth Games in 2010. This being my first trip meant, of course, there were some problems and it was not running to the airport on this day. There would be adventures on the Metro in the coming days – that would have to wait though. 

Government taxis was the next option. As we moved towards the outside of the airport the heat was rising. There was some form of air-conditioning in the Terminal, the air from outside was now trying to force its way into the terminal.  

Gilly duly paid for taxis for us all, gave us the address of the hotel and we moved to the taxi rank. There was a wall of heat as we exited the terminal. That kind of choking heat which creates instant perspiration and problems to breathe normally. 

Under the hot sun it took a few seconds to adjust. 

That heat plus the pollution is a staggering mix when experienced for the first time. Remember, we had left in the autumnal throes of October, and for me this was my first ever experience of this type of atmosphere.

What happened next was one of the most traumatic journeys that I have ever taken. It was so bad I could not even tell you how many of us were in the taxi, or who they were. 

Rucksacks were placed in the boot, I sat in the front with the address and we headed from the airport across the city.

The journey was one of the worst 45 minutes of my life. Almost as soon as we left the airport we were plunged into the madness, absolute madness, of the Delhi traffic system. 

You use the horn to make other motorists aware that you are nearby. You use the horn to let others know you can see them. You use the horn when you change lane. You use the horn when someone in front of you changes lanes. Every single driver on the road – using their horn. A cacophony that for some reason went right through me. 

You do not brake. You do not give way. Traffic lights are seemingly advisory. Never stop at  a roundabout. It was intense. Cars, lorries, buses, bicycles, tuk-tuks, ox pulled carts, cows and pedestrians all fighting for the same spaces. My foot was boring into the floor of the taxi, my senses were on overload. I had so much wanted a ‘soft landing’, this was hell.

Hot, noisy and life threatening. 

I think it was worse being someone who was a driver. In some twisted way I was in awe at our driver. It was a great skill to weave through the traffic. Just use the horn and go. Other side of the road quieter? No problem, use that side of the road. Doesn’t matter if cars are coming at you.

With hindsight, it was a Monday morning and this was as bad as it could have been. 

Eventually we worked our way off the main roads and into PaharGanj, through the main market, a turn into a rundown square and our final destination outside the Hotel Metropolis.

What was I doing here? Heat, dust, noise, wires, unfinished buildings, stray dogs, rubbish – everything so intense. If someone had said I could return home immediately I would have taken them up on the offer. I was totally unprepared for this.